AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, Bhutan, Kankar Pünzum Attempt

Kankar Pünzum Attempt. The Himalayan Association of Japan expedition was composed of Michifumi Ohuchi, leader, Yoshio Ogata, climbing leader, Hitoshi Watanabe, Sadao Hangaya, Koichi Ezaki, Shinya Kobayashi, Makoto Miyoshi, Tetsuya Kudo, Fumie Kumeda and Shunji Nudeshima. They left Thimpu on August 19 and reached Base Camp on the 31st. They chose the central (south) ridge and established Camp I at 5220 meters on September 12, but from there the upper part of the ridge looked very difficult. They then tried the west ridge but that proved no better. They returned to the central ridge. They climbed over a snow dome of 6490 meters and a lower col of 6370 meters. They established Camp II at 6450 meters on September 22. There were two steep steps before they placed Camp III at 6880 meters on September 30. On October 1 Kudo came down with pulmonary edema at Camp II. All members were needed to carry him down. They then decided to give up the route as too dangerous.

Sadao Tambe, Himalayan Association of Japan