South America, Argentine–Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy and Other Patagonian Ascents

Publication Year: 1986.

Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy and Other Patagonian Ascents. Swiss Marco Pedrini climbed the Cerro Torre solo in one day on November 26. He repeated the climb twice more with Italian Fulvio G. Mariani, who filmed the ascent. Swiss Martin Moosberger and Kurt Lochner reached the summit on November 11, French Jacques Janel, Bruno Thery, Pierre Faivre and Jean Lemoine on December 6 and Spaniards Claudio Sánchez and Fernando Cobo on December 29. All these were by the Maestri bolt route. Swiss Kurt Lochner and Marco Pedrini made a variation on the Casarotto buttress on Fitz Roy, reaching the summit on December 29. Two young Argentines, Sebastián de la Cruz and Gabriel Ruiz, the former only 16 years old, repeated the Argentine route on the southeast buttress, getting to the summit on January 15, 1986. They hope also to climb the Aguja Mermoz, but at this date, we have no news about it. Casimiro Ferrari climbed the Cerro Norte solo in early 1986. This was the second ascent, the first having been done in 1970 by the Skvarca brothers. Argentine Marcelo Aguilar and Swiss Lilien Aguilar climbed the normal route on the Aguja Guillaumet. Italians Alessandro Mariani, Humberto Villotta, Francesco D’Alessio and Guiseppe Motti climbed the Cerro Poincenot on November 13 by a new route, but we are not sure which it was. Other climbers are still in the field.

Vojslav Arko, Club Andino Bariloche