Marmolejo, North Face. In 1982 we climbed a route on the north face of Marmolejo directly to the summit. Our new route in 1985 went much more to the right of the summit. On January 4 four of us left our Base Camp at 3500 meters, climbed penitentes under a wall of rotten rock, where we had the threat of rockfall, and went diagonally up to camp on ice on a small terrace at 4500 meters. As the weather on the 5th was bad, we remained there to acclimatize. On January 6 we climbed 40° to 55° ice to the west ridge. Since the climbing on the ridge was hard, one climber quit at 5300 meters and another at 5900 meters. Hans Grosse and I kept on to the summit (6100 meters, 20,013 feet).

Iván Vigouroux, Federatión de Andinismo de Chile