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South America, Bolivia, Illimani

Illimani. We two made access through the village of Mina Urania by a long moraine which rises directly to the southwest face of Illimani. Our first attempt was in the middle of the face which we climbed in very difficult gullies, hoping to reach a col on the south ridge. We gave this route up because of the excess of snow so early in the season. We traversed left from the bottom of the face to a col on the southwest ridge, which we climbed to the summit. We made the climb from May 10 to 12. The descent by the normal route was equally dangerous because of the snow.

Monique and Frédéric Faure, Club Alpin Français