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South America, Peru-Cordillera Blanca, Milpocraju, West Face, Tsurup, Southwest Face, and Pisco Oeste, South Face

Milpocraju, West Face, Tsurup, Southwest Face, and Pisco Oeste, South Face. Our expedition was to make a filmed ascent of a major peak in the Cordillera Blanca. The film will be presented for the Mick Burke Award, 1985. We established Base Camp on June 1 at the head of the Quebrada Cayesh. Reconnaissance and acclimatization climbs were then carried out. The northwest ridge of Cayesh, which was originally considered, was badly out of condition; we were stopped by vertical meringue ice. We climbed a major and unclimbed route on the west face of Milpocraju on an elegant line, traversing the main part of the face. Richard Thoms, Al Hinkes, Rodger Payne, Iain Peter, Steve Derwin and I completed the route and filmed it over a three-day period, June 11 to 13. A further two weeks were spent in finishing the filming in and around the Quebrada Cayesh. Most of the expedition departed on July 3. Until August 14 Al Hinkes and I climbed independently of each other. His principal climbs appear below written by his American partner, Steve Untch. I climbed solo the direct southwest face of Tsurup, taking a line through the initial central couloir with two pitches of 85° ice smears over rotten rock and continuing straight up to the summit via 60° nevé fields and well formed flutings. It took five hours to climb the 800 vertical meters.* Frenchman Philippe Beaud and I did a new route on the south face of Pisco Oeste, taking a line west of the original south-face route. We started up an initial 55° nevé slope directly below the summit séracs. We crossed left 200 meters below these overhangs on a 90-meter, 75° to 80° rock band and exited onto the west ridge via a Y-shaped system of vertical couloirs. We also climbed Chopicalqui by its south ridge. We climbed the southeast ridge of Cashan Este, starting up initial granite slabs which led to 45° to 60° penitentes and rock steps. After a two-day approach, my partner became exhausted on the west face of Santa Cruz halfway up this beautiful but difficult wall and we retreated.

Jerry M. Gore, Alpine Club

*This route was repeated on July 27-28 by Peruvian Hugo Colonia and Poles Monika Niedbalska and Eva Szczesniak.