American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru-Cordillera Blanca, Ranrapalca, Southwest Face, and Other Climbs

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1986

Ranrapalca, Southwest Face, and Other Climbs. A party from the Klub Wysokogórski Warszawa was led by Wlodzimierz Rudolf. Ryszard Kolakowski and Tomasz Kopys made the first ascent of the southwest face of Ranrapalca on June 29. In eight hours they took a direct line via the center of the 1000-meter-high face (UIAA V rock and ice of 45° to 70°).* There was a continuous danger of ice- and rockfall. The crux was above the third snow patch in the upper face. The same pair completed ascents of Palcaraju’s south face direct on June 24 and Pucaranra’s west face on July 2. From July 12 to 15 these two made a traverse of Huascarán Norte and Sur, ascending the first by the superb Barrard route and descending from Huascarán Sur by the Garganta route.

JózefNyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland

*In 1971 Norwegians climbed on the left of the face and then up the southwest ridge.—Editor.

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