Huascarán Norte, North Face, Women’s Ascent. A Polish-Czech women’s team completed a new route on the extreme right side of the north face of Huascarán Norte, between the French (Paragot) spur and the Italian northwest ridge. In the lower section the route ascends ice slopes of 60° to 65° with a few stretches of 80°. Afterwards it is mixed terrain and steep rock of UIAA grade V. All the crux pitches were above 6000 meters. The climb was made in one alpine push from July 6 to 14. From June 23 to July 5 they had carried supplies to 5000 meters. This aided in acclimatization. The team consisted of Czechs Blanka Danihelková and Zuzana Hoffmanová and Poles Amalia Kaploniak, Ewa Pa- nejko and Ewa Szczesniak. On July 16 Monika Niedbalska from Poland made a solo ascent of Huascarán Sur. In late July she, accompanied by Szczesniak and Peruvian Hugo Colona, repeated the route on the north face of Tsurup with 60° ice and mixed terrain up to 80°.

Józef Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland