American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan, Early Bird Buttress Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1986

Mount Logan, Early Bird Buttress Attempt. During April, Mick Deiro, Tim Laughlin, Jeff Jackson and I as leader made a new route on the south face of Mount Logan. The Early Bird Buttress lies to the right of the south-southwest buttress and diagonals up and right for 8000 feet to meet the Hummingbird Ridge at 16,000 feet. We pushed the route beyond all difficulties to within a few hundred yards of the Hummingbird Ridge and then quit due to serious frostbite to Deiro and Laughlin. Their toes were frozen while belaying the brilliant leads of Jeff Jackson up a 400-foot wall of brittle 55° ice. Jackson had a massive pack, minimal protection and only a sliver of moon to light the way. The descent required 1500 feet of rappelling. While large avalanches of ice and snow were always present, the features of the route protect it well. It should become a popular route on the south face of Logan.

Dan Batwinas, Unaffiliated

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