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North America, United States, Wyoming, Central Wyoming Granite

Central Wyoming Granite. Some fine routes have been done near Casper in Fremont Canyon and on Dome Rock. They are part of the Rattlesnake Range near Alcova and consist of granite domes or canyons. The pink granite is generally very sound, but the area has been fractured by stresses and intrusions, leaving loose blocks among the sound rock. In general the domes are weathered clean and the canyons are washed clean. Only on new routes or some overhanging walls is loose or flaky rock encountered. Fremont Canyon, formed by the North Platte River, is from 100 to 600 feet deep with walls up to 300 feet high. Dome Rock has 250-foot less-than-vertical walls and lies on the desert plains. Walt Bailey in the mid fifties climbed pinnacles in the lower portions of the canyon and occasional gullies at the Dome. In the sixties Jack Riley and Fred Jacquot explored other areas of the canyon and tried some crack systems at the Dome. Major accomplishments during this time were bold routes like The Slab (5.8, A1). In the seventies almost every crack system at the Dome was climbed through the efforts of Pat Pamenter and Shawn Hogan. During this time Kelley Moore, Ron Radzietta, Dave Holsworth, Jim Dunlap, Bill Alexander and others were climbing difficult routes in the canyon. In the eighties Steve Petro, Jim Cunningham and I joined the group. Blank faces were explored at the Dome, resulting in some high-quality routes. Dome Rock consists primarily of moderate cracks on medium to coarse granite. Unlike Vedauwoo, the cracks are smooth on the inside but not quite so flaring. The climbs there vary from 5.5 to 5.11b. Fremont Canyon is divided into several areas. Most of the routes lie in the Bridge area, Side Canyon and Narrows. The West Canyon and Power Tower have a few routes and their quality makes up for the short walk to get to them. The climbing is steep in the canyon along fine crack systems with occasional face routes. The cracks are generally straight and smooth with small edges on face routes. A guidebook to the area, High Plains Climbs—A Guide to the Casper, Wyoming Area may be obtained at local climbing shops or by ordering from Amo U. ligner, Route 1, Box 1359, Manchester, TN 37355. The area is also included in Rocky Mountain Rock Climbs, the second volume of John Harlin’s guide to North American climbing.

Arno U. Ilgner