North America, United States, Wyoming, Haystack, Southeast Face, West Face, Deep Lake Area, Wind River Range
Haystack, Southeast Face, West Face, Deep Lake Area, Wind River Range. In late August beautiful weather allowed Donna McBain and me to add two new routes to this rock-climbing haven. On August 27 we climbed a route in the middle of the 400-foot face bordered by the south ridge and southeast buttress. It followed crack systems for 75 feet right of the obvious left-facing crack-and- chimney system on the lower third of the face. It finishes via a right-facing open-book on the top of the face (II, 5.7). On August 29 we did a route which ascends the crack-and-dihedral systems 150 feet left of the south gully. A large chockstone wedged halfway up the face below a prominent red dihedral marks the route. Initially we followed a right-facing dihedral to cracks on the face to the right below a large lichen-covered roof (5.10). We turned the roof on the left and passed a large chockstone easily on the right (5.9). We tried to free-climb the red open-book but were turned back by an awkward off-width crack below it. Instead we ascended a gray roof up and right (5.9) and cracks above to a large sloping belay ledge. The final pitch was up a right-facing open-book on the left of the ledge and cracks and bulges to easier rock above. (III, 5.10).
Steven C. Risse