North America, United States, Wyoming, Haystack, Southeast Face, West Face, Deep Lake Area, Wind River Range

Publication Year: 1986.

Haystack, Southeast Face, West Face, Deep Lake Area, Wind River Range. In late August beautiful weather allowed Donna McBain and me to add two new routes to this rock-climbing haven. On August 27 we climbed a route in the middle of the 400-foot face bordered by the south ridge and southeast buttress. It followed crack systems for 75 feet right of the obvious left-facing crack-and- chimney system on the lower third of the face. It finishes via a right-facing open-book on the top of the face (II, 5.7). On August 29 we did a route which ascends the crack-and-dihedral systems 150 feet left of the south gully. A large chockstone wedged halfway up the face below a prominent red dihedral marks the route. Initially we followed a right-facing dihedral to cracks on the face to the right below a large lichen-covered roof (5.10). We turned the roof on the left and passed a large chockstone easily on the right (5.9). We tried to free-climb the red open-book but were turned back by an awkward off-width crack below it. Instead we ascended a gray roof up and right (5.9) and cracks above to a large sloping belay ledge. The final pitch was up a right-facing open-book on the left of the ledge and cracks and bulges to easier rock above. (III, 5.10).

Steven C. Risse