American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, Moab

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1986

Moab. On a 25-meter varnished slab in Sevenmile Canyon 100 meters northeast of the 18-mile marker on US 13 Richard Pietro and I put up two very enjoyable face climbs. Petticoat Gumption (5.9) used one drilled angle placed from stances. Five weeks later we returned and added Pigskin Parade (5.10 + ) to the left. Three drilled angles were placed for protection, but the second was completed on aid after several short falls while trying to place it purely. Both routes have become very popular with the rapidly growing Moab resident climbing population; among them is Tony Valdez who added a direct variant to Petticoat Gumption above the drilled angle on a top rope.

Ron Olevsky

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