American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, Aeolian Tower, Sorcerer and Sorcerer's Apprentice, Moab Area of Canyonlands

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1986

Aeolian Tower, Sorcerer and Socerer’s Apprentice, Moab Area of Can- yonlands. Previously unreported is the first ascent of 225-foot Aeolian Tower, an Entrada sandstone formation resting atop the Carmel formation. Also known as Airport Tower, it is located just south of Echo Tower in Courthouse Pasture south of Moab airport and north of Seven Mile Canyon. The climb was made by Peter Gallagher and Peter Williams. They followed the southwest comer of the rock to a ledge, then traversed east and ascended the first crack system to reach the summit (III, 5.9, A3 + ). They rappelled off the south end of the tower. Two other excellent previously unreported climbs are the Sorcerer and the Sorcerer’s Apprentice. Both are three pitches of Wingate sandstone. The Sorcerer was first climbed by Chris Wood and Jim Dunn from the left (east) side of the pillar (III, 5.10, Al). The first free ascent was accomplished by Jim Dunn and Leonard Coyne (III, 5.11). The Sorcerer’s Apprentice was first ascended by Chip Chace and Jeff Achey from the east side (III, 5.10). The two pinnacles lean against the rimrock on the south side of the River Road a mile up-river from US 191 at the Colorado River Bridge in Moab. The Sorcerer is the farthest west of the two.

Eric Bjørnstad

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