American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Nevada, Red Rocks Routes

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1986

Red Rocks Routes. Some of the routes done in the Red Rocks since the completion of the manuscript for my guidebook in 1981. Black Velvet Canyon: Sandblast (5.9), FFA October 1985 by Nick Nordblom, Paul Van Betten. This is a free ascent of the aid variation of the first three pitches of “Triassic Sands,” which consists of two 5.9 pitches and a short 5.7 pitch. Bring plenty of wired stoppers. Only the Good Die Young (II, 5.11), FA May 1985 by Bill Bradley, Joanne and Jorge Urioste, Mike Ward; FFA November 1985 by Greg Marin, Jimmy Olson, Mike Ward. It lies on the west side of Whiskey Peak. Climb four pitches which include an obvious black open-book. Flesh (IV, 5.10b), FA 1984 by Richard Harrison, Jay Smith. Climb the first pitch of “Refried Brains,” head right and up on a poorly protected black face, gain the right-facing comer system which leads to the right side of the giant roof and continue to the top of the buttress. Rock Warrier (IV, 5.10b), FA 1983 by Richard Harrison, Nick Nord- blom, Jay Smith. It ascends eight pitches of a steep, black face midway between “Refried Brains” and “Dream of Wild Turkeys.” Prince of Darkness (IV, 5.10 + ), FA and FFA July 1985 by Bill Bradley, Joanne and Jorge Urioste, Mike Ward. Climb the first pitch of “Dream of Wild Turkeys,” then five pitches up a black wall between “Rock Warrier” and “Dream of Wild Turkeys.” Yellow Brick Road (5.10 + ), FA and FFA June 1985 by Bill Bradley, Joanne and Jorge Urioste, Mike Ward. A two-pitch variation of “Dream of Wild Turkeys” which connects the top of the second pitch with the top of the sixth pitch via a vertical line up the face. Overhanging Hangover (5.10) and Early Times (5.10). The former consists of two pitches which surmount the offset roof in the arch which lies 80 feet left of the lower part of “Sour Mash,” FA 1981 by Dan Goodwin, Joanne and Jorge Urioste. The latter begins from the hanging belay over the arch, goes left and out onto the face. (Belay in double cracks above the arch’s apex.) It then connects with the fifth pitch of “Dream of Turkeys,” FA 1983 by Dan Manicks. Lone Star (V, 5.10), FA 1983 by Paul Van Betten, Richard Harrison, Paul Obanheim, Jay Smith. Climb “Yellow Rose of Texas” and the first pitch of “Texas Tower Connection,” then go straight up comers with overhangs to an obvious diagonal ramp which leads up and right to a major left- facing comer system which is followed to the top of the peak. Great Expectations (III, 5.9), FA September 1985 by Bill Bradley, Joanne and Jorge Urioste, Mike Ward. It ascends seven pitches up the right skyline of the Velvet Wall as seen from the parking area. Desert Reality (I, 5.11 + ), FA Spring 1984 by Paul Van Betten. Climb the horizontal crack in the huge, prominent roof on the south side of the Monument. Chinese Handcuffs (I, 5.12), FFA September 1985 by Greg Mayer, Mike Tupper. Oak Creek Canyon: Vertigo (III, 5.10), FA 1978 by Alan Bartlett, Bob Harrington. It ascends the left-facing roof and comer system to the left of “Close Encounters.” Begin on a ramp that skirts up and right, ascend cracks in the black face that leads up to the overhangs, then follow the comers to the top of the cliff. Bring several knifeblades. Close Encounters (II, 5.9), FA 1978 by Alan Bartlett, Rob Dellinger. It ascends the prominent left-facing comer on the lowest north-facing cliff just above where Oak Creek splits into its north and south branches. Juniper Canyon: Juniper Buttress (IV, 5.9), FA 1975 by Alan Bartlett, Fred Beckey, Alan Roberts. (This was called “Ginger Cracks” in the guidebook with mistaken FA information.) Cloud Tower (IV, 5.12), FA Fall 1983 by Richard Harrison, Nick Nordblom, Paul Van Betten. About a rope-length to the right of “Crimson Chrysalis” is a tower covered with green lichen. Climb past ledges to a difficult right-leaning, right-facing comer. Head up obvious crack systems. Go right around the prominent outside comer which defines the top of the tower. Then ascend a classic right-facing dihedral to the tower’s summit. Sergeant Slaughter (V, 5.10, A3), FA March 1984 by Richard Harrison, Paul Van Betten. It ascends the face and crack systems just to the right of the buttress which borders the left side of the Rainbow Wall. Emerald City (V, 5.10, A3), FA Spring 1983 by Randy Grand- staff, John Thacker. It climbs a crack system with a black streak located left of “Battle Royale” and about two rope-lengths to the right of “Sergeant Slaughter.” Battle Royale (V, 5.10, A3), FA Spring 1983 by Wendell Broussard, Richard Harrison, Nick Nordblom. It ascends the first major crack system to the left of “Rainbow Wall: Original Route.” Bird Hunter Buttress (IV, 5.9), FA April 1982 by Joanne and Jorge Urioste. It ascends the 1500-foot buttress which bounds the right side of the Rainbow Wall. Start from a large pine tree on the highest non-technical ledge which leads in from the left. Time’s Up (III, 5.11), FA April 1984 by Bill Bradley, Jorge Urioste, FFA April 1984 by Joanne Urioste, Mike Ward. It ascends the left side of the Hourglass on the Brownstone Wall. Pine Creek Canyon: Welcome to the Red Rocks (I, F. 12), FA Fall 1984 by Sal Mamusia, Paul Van Betten. Climb a 40-foot right-facing comer located to the right of the center of Mescalito. Risky Business (III, 5.10 + ), FA September 1985 by Greg Mayer, Mile Tupper. It climbs four pitches up the face between “Negro Blanco” and “Heart of Darkness.” Bring many small wire stoppers and the imagination to place them. Ice Box Canyon: La Cierta Edad (III, 5.9 + ), FA August 1981 by Joanne and Jorge Urioste. It climbs the crack system parallel to and 40 feet left of “Unfinished Symphony,” beginning on the prow of the apron of white blocks at its base.

Joanne Urioste

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