American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California–Yosemite, Tuolumne Meadows, 1985

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1986

Tuolumne Meadows, 1985. Tuolumne has finally gone the way of most other major climbing areas; every cliff, no matter how tiny or obscure, has had routes put up on it. There was lots of activity in 1985, and not all of the reported routes are listed here. One new trend was the free-soloing of first ascents; this may lead to future discussions (arguments?) as to whether subsequent parties wishing to do the climb have the right to add bolts to these otherwise completely protectionless routes. On Stately Pleasure Dome, Chris Falkenstein and I climbed Dead Next Door, a 5.9 hand-crack left of Death Crack. Going straight up where The Way We Were traverses left, Dave Count and Rob Settlemeyer established Daddy’s Little Girl (5.10). Trilogy (5.10 - ) is the farthest left route on Harlequin Dome, done by Steve Gerberding and Alan Bartlett. To the right of the Sting, and joining that route after two pitches is No Rock Nazis, climbed by Falkenstein, Joe Rousek and Dave Bengston (5.11). The Guppie Wall is a short cliff directly below the Shark; two routes were done here, Achilles’ Last Stand (5.10) and Fairies Wear Boots (5.10 - ), both by Kurt Smith and Mike and Dave Hatchett. On Low Profile Dome, Alan Nelson and Diana Chapman climbed Red Dawn (5.7), while Tom, Don and TM Herbert established Family Affair, the right-facing comer just left of the Golfers’ Route (5.10 — ). On North Whizz Dome, Grant Hiskes, Gerberding and Bengston established a girdle Traverse, Take A Whizz (5.9). Further downstream from the established routes on Hammer Dome, John Bachar climbed Johnny Rock (5.10 + ) up an ultra steep knobby wall with just one protection bolt. On a small wall below the west face of Daff Dome, Tom Malzbender climbed Green Eggs and Ham, a 5.10 - face climb. On the main west face of Daff, Nelson free-soloed the face just left of El Condor to produce Fool’s Gold (5.9). Nelson, Chapman and Dave Lomba climbed Fireworks (5.10) to the left of Crow’s Feet. The furthest right route on West Cottage Dome is Head Cheese (5.10 - ), a deceptively low-angle trough/corner, done by Gerberding, Bengston and Jim May. On Puppy Dome, Falkenstein and I added a second pitch to Achilles (5.10 + ). The Razorback is the wall connecting Marmot and Fairview Domes. Ed Barry and Nanci Adinolf climbed First Verse (5.10 + ) here. On the Whale’s Back, Bengston and Ger- berding put up Nutsack (5.10) between Fast Track and Defenders of the Faith. The longest route listed here is the highly acclaimed Hemispheres on Fairview Dome, left of Piece de Resistance. Scott Burke and Chris Hash climbed this serious route (5.10 + ). Uh-Uh (5.10) stays to the left of Uh-Huh, and was done by Vern and Margaret Clevenger and Claude Fiddler. To the left of Pumpkin Eater, two water streaks were done: the left one is Straight Street (5.9, Bachar and Barry), and the right one is Run For Cover (5.10 — , Bachar and Tom Herbert). Right of Pumpkin Eater, three streaks were free-soloed by Nelson: Walk of Life (5.9), Blue Moon (5.8), and Silverado (5.6). On the west face of the Lamb, the Gerberding brothers climbed a two-pitch route left of Old Goats’ Route. Steve Gerberding teamed up with Bartlett to climb Silver Slippers (5.10), four pitches left of Guardians of the Galaxy. Bartlett and Tony Puppo did Dragonfly (5.10) on the right side of Drug Dome. Missing Link (5.11) is the right of two off-width cracks on the north face of Marioulumne, done by Nelson and Rob Orevitz. Just right of this is Razorback (not to be confused with the formation with the same name previously mentioned), a 5.10+ face climb going up the outer edge of the Missing Link dihedral. Above Lake of the Domes is Break Dancing (5.9), a two-pitch route which crosses Galadriel, done by Alan Roberts and Tom Herbert. Right of this, Roberts and Gary Slate did Return Engagement (5.10) which starts left of Sharkey’s End and joins that route. Also nearby is Monster Walk, a 5.8 pitch just right of the regular South Face of Medlicott, done by Nelson and Paul Moss. Island in the Sky is a newly- developed cliff high on the north face of Medlicott, and six routes were done here. From left to right they are Suicide Solution (5.11, Smith and D. Hatchett), Whip It (5.11, Smith and Roberts), Prime Cut (5.10, Roberts and Slate), Thunder Road (5.10, Roberts and Slate), Freedom of Choice (5.11, Smith and D. Hatchett), and Munge Plunge (5.10- , M. and D. Hatchett). Nelson and Moss put up Blues in A (5.9) left of the Middling. Further right on Medlicott, a number of one-pitch routes were done roughly below Chartes. Two Cams Too Open climbs to a long roof, then takes a long traverse right. It is 5.10 + and was done by Steve Schneider and Tim Lockhart. Like a Virgin (5.10) by Schneider and Shelly Presson and Get into the Groove (5.10 + ) by Schneider and Dave Hauser both share the same belay/rappel station. Also in the area are Follow Your Heart (5.11, Burke, Schneider and Gerberding) and Playing With a Full Deck (5.10, Schneider, Lockhart and Wayne Burleson), both starting from a common pedestal. Schneider and Orevitz also climbed straight above the first pitch of Cie- bola for two pitches to produce The Castoff (5.11), while Bachar and Lidija Painkiher linked together the second pitch of Ciebola and The Castoff at 5.10. Four water streaks were climbed to the right of Wrinkle in Time. From left to right they are The Kid (5.10), The Pinhead (5.11), Here’s Johnny (5.10) and General Shortie (5.10 + ). The first three were done by Bachar and Smith, the last by Smith and D. Hatchett. Two routes were done on the left margin of Dozier Dome by Falkenstein and Tom Herbert, Scary Walk (5.6) and Repo Man (5.9). On a short wall below Tenaya Peak, Bartlett, Gerberding and May climbed Olive Oyl (5.10). Finally, the steep lower section of Tenaya Peak provided four short, quality routes. Lakeshore Boulevard (5.10, Count and Eric Mayo) follows a left-slanting dike, while Fierce Tiger on Rock (5.11+) crosses the dike, done by Schneider and Orevitz. Further right, Chimbote (5.11) starts in a thin crack and ends with difficult face moves, done by Schneider, Count and Orevitz. Lastly, Hole in One (5.10 + ) climbs through strange pockets to a belay at a flake, climbed by Clevenger, Schneider, Orevitz and Tom Herbert.

Don Reid

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