American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California–Yosemite, Yosemite Valley, 1985

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1986

Yosemite Valley, 1985. Following is a partial list of new routes done in the Valley during 1985. On the wall scene, climbers continued to be active on El Capitan. Bill Russell and Doug McDonald climbed Mr. Midwest, which starts left of the West Face route, crosses it at the “New World” pitch and stays right of it until Thanksgiving Ledge (VI, 5.10, A3). Just right of this, Steve Bosque and Dan McDivett did Realm of the Flying Monkeys (VI, 5.10, A3), which exits from the West Face at a large arch a quarter of the way up and stays right of the preceding route. Charles Cole, in a 12-day solo effort did a new route which starts right of Mescalito, joins that route for its middle section and finishes left of it (VI, A5). John Barbella and John Mittendorf climbed Atlantic Ocean (VI, 5.10, A5), starting adjacent to the rock scar near the Footstool, and joining New Jersey Turnpike 8 pitches from the top. Further right, Greg Child and Randy Leavitt did Cowboys in Space between Tangerine Trip and Zenyatta Mondatta, joining the latter route for its final pitches (VI, A5). Sue Harrington became the second woman to solo El Cap with her ascent of Zodiac, followed soon after by Ellie Hawkins, who did Never Never Land. Hawkins also became the first woman to solo a new wall, climbing Dyslexia (V or VI, rating unknown), in the Ribbon Falls area. On Mount Watkins, Bosque and Mike Corbett climbed Ten- aya Terror (VI, 5.9, A4) which stays right of the South Face route and parallels it closely. The Cookie Cliff was the scene of some of the harder free climbs this year. Kim Carrigan and Geoff Weigand climbed America’s Cup (5.12), the oft-attempted thin seam left of Red Zinger. On the far right side of the cliff, Kurt Smith and Dave Hatchett did Ray’s Pin Job (5.12) and Something for Nothing (5.12 +). Todd Skinner freed the old aid route The Stigma (5.13), in a controversial ascent, due to his use of pre-placed protection. The route is, nonetheless a very difficult pitch and was repeated soon after by Alan Watts in better style. Above the Cookie, Dimitri Barton and Johnny Woodward climbed Klingon (5.11) and Romantic Tension (5.10 +), two routes leading to the slab adjacent to Gait of Power. Left of Chicken Pie at the New Diversions cliff, Barton and Joe Heage did Radical Shiek (5.10). On El Cap, Ken Arizza and Eric Kohl climbed Where’s the Reef, a dihedral to the right of Wendy (5.10). The Yo- semite Falls area was the scene of several new routes. Ten Years After (5.10 + ) is the first pitch of the old Yosemite Falls-West Side route done free, and has become popular. It was climbed by Smith, Arizza and Dave Griffith. Right of these, Smith and Chris Beigh did Mist Fitz (5.11 +), which leads to the same spot. Further right are Play Misty for Me (5.11 -), and Power Slave (5.11), done by Smith, Hatchett, Arrizza and Griffith. Fine Line is a 5.10 – finger crack just left of Peeping Tom in the Royal Arches area, done by Grant Hiskes and Doe DeRoss. Just right of Façade, Fishfingers is a 5.11 thin crack climbed by Woodward and Maria Cranor. Cole and Mittendorf did Cryin’ for Momma (5.9 + ), a three-pitch route in the Arches Terrace area. Bob Ost and Norman Boles did Sleight of FI and (5.10) to the right of Face Card and ending at the same belay. Barton and Steve Gerberding added a second pitch to these routes (5.10 +). One of the longer free climbs reported is Friday the 13th (IV, 5.10 + ) between Shakey Flakes and Greasy but Groovy, done by Barton and Scott Burke. On Half Dome, Cole, Mittendorf and Rusty Reno did Deuceldike (5.8), which ascends the face left (I think) of Snake Dike. Further right, the trio did Autobahn (IV, 5.11), an excellent twelve-pitch route on the margin of the south face. Also in this area, Mark and Shirley Spencer and Dan and Dave Abbott put up Eye in the Sky (5.10), which parallels Snake Dike to its right. The Spencers, with Floyd Hayes also put up Zoner (5.11), which goes right off of the right side of Monday Morning Slab. Also on the Apron, Woodward and Cranor made the first free ascent of Thunderhead (5.11 +). Ed Barry and Scott Cosgrove free- climbed Bridalveil East Buttress via a variation to produce Return to the Stone- age, which involves three 5.11 pitches. Finally, at Elephant Rock, Lance Rowland and Tucker Tech climbed Foaming At the Crotch (5.10 -), which traverses right out of Straight Error and continues up for several pitches.

Don Reid

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