American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California–Sierra Nevada, New Routes on Grand Sentinel and North Dome, Kings' Canyon National Park

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1986

New Routes on Grand Sentinel and North Dome, Kings’ Canyon National Park. In July, Bruce Bourassa and I climbed Cosmopolis, a new route on the Grand Sentinel, which we believe to be the third route on the formation and the first new route in 10 years. Left of the Robbins-Chouinard route is a huge left-facing comer. This route starts left of that on a right-trending ramp and ledge system, which is followed for two pitches to a ledge below a block. Two more pitches involving some aid follow cracks up the left side of the block to a huge ledge. From here, cracks zigzag up past a large flake and over a roof, finally leading to a ramp and the top. (V, 5.10, A3.) Invisible Nebulae is also on the Grand Sentinel and starts near the northeast buttress on a ramp, hidden from below. Four free pitches lead to the end of the ramp. From here, two A4 pitches end with a pendulum into a comer. The rest of the route is free. Mike Stewart and I climbed it in September. (V, 5.10, A4.) Across the canyon from the Grand Sentinel, Bourassa, Stewart and I teamed up to climb Dolphin Dreams on North Dome. The route starts with 5.9 face climbing to the base of a ramp. From the ramp’s end, four pitches of mixed climbing lead to two easier free pitches and the top. (V, 5.10 or 5.11, A3.)

Craig Peer, D.O.C.C.

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