American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington–Cascade Mountains, Prusik Peak, 1984

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1986

Prusik Peak, 1984. My brother Ted, Dan Nordstrom and I made a free climb west of the Stanley-Burgner route on August 13, 1984. The climb begins under a triangular overhang in the large dihedral system left of the south-face chimney. Three rope-lengths (the first two 5.10) end on a ledge on the west face. A higher dihedral is gained on the right and leads back onto the south face (5.10). Face and crack climbing leads to a wide off-width crack in the overhanging summit block. An overhang to the left (5.10d) dramatically ends the climb. An unnecessary pin mars the crux of the fourth pitch, but there are no signs of ascent in the beginning dihedral or the finish. (Grade III, 5.10.)

Fred Yackulic

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