American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington–Cascade Mountains, Perdition Peak, Northeast Rib

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1986

Perdition Peak, Northeast Rib. The most dramatic line on Backbone ridge, this spine shoots arrow-straight from the Perdition Glacier to the summit of Perdition Peak. My wife, Stephanie Subak, and I climbed it on July 14. We took the Sibley Creek approach to Marble Creek cirque and continued to a heather camp above Perdition’s south col. The next morning we made an easy descent down the Perdition Glacier to the low point on the rib. We started climbing up a chimney left of the crest, passing under a huge block at its top. Then we crossed over the rib to the right, climbing slabs, comers, and a steep crack (5.7) for two leads to a belay perch on a sub-crest right of the main crest. After an exposed traverse to easier ground on the right, we climbed up and left to the main crest and followed it for several easy, enjoyable pitches. A steep chimney system about 50 feet right of the rib led us to the major step two-thirds of the way up the route. We traversed right to a dihedral system (a logical route), but instead of following it, continued up and right on slabs before working up and gradually left again for several class 4 leads to the summit. We descended the south ridge and trudged out, reaching the car after midnight. A fine route, but a bit remote for a weekend. (III, 5.7.)

Lowell Skoog

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