American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section

  • Club Activities
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The last two years have seen a continuation of the social events that have become traditional activities for many Section members, as well as an increased involvement in several climbing area problems. 1983 began with the winter program, which featured Jim Bridwell’s slide show of his 1982 winter ascent of Pumori in Nepal, Kichatna Spire, and the East Face of the Moose’s Tooth. In March members met for the annual Spring Ski and Soak, an event which Jerry Bock has made into an outdoor culinary art form, with the roasting of an entire lamb over an open fire. Climbing outings included gatherings in Yosemite Valley, Tuolumne Meadows, and Lover’s Leap. In the fall the Section held its first banquet, with guest speaker Don Whillans providing an entertaining and humorous program, which featured the classic ascent of the South Face of Annapurna. The Section also took this occasion to honor two of its most eminent members, Barbara Bedayan and Marjory Farquhar.

In 1984 there were the usual spring and fall meetings, wine and cheese affairs in which a little business and a lot of socializing generally take place. The fall meeting has traditionally been a time for members to catch up on the summer climbing activities of their friends and to show a sampling of their slides. This year’s fall meeting was hosted by Chris and Sharon Jones, at which Chris was elected to serve as Section chairman, taking over from Brock Wagstaff.

As more and more people move into the mountains, climbers are finding their favorite crags in greater danger of either falling into private (and perhaps hostile) hands, or having access cut off. Following the successful resolution of an access and sanitation problem at Lover’s Leap, the Section has maintained a committee, headed by Bob Schneider, to continue the work of climbing area preservation and access. Much of this involves furthering the fine relationship previously developed with the Forest Service. As in the summer of 1983, when Section members and other climbers met to assist in the construction of an outhouse and walk-in campground at Lover’s Leap, we will be doing similar projects in the coming year.

In December the Sierra Nevada Section hosted the Club’s Annual Meeting at the Oakland Airport Hilton Inn. Over 500 members and guests attended an outstanding program that included several of the best climbs of 1984, as well as the diversity of Rick Sylvester’s work as stunt man in several James Bond films and a climbing history of El Capitan. The Saturday night dinner speaker was the great Italian climber, Walter Bonatti. It has been reported that this was one of the largest gatherings of the Club, made possible by the fine work of the Annual Meeting Committee capably headed by Leigh Ortenburger.

Besides all the activities enjoyed by the Section as a group, many members were active throughout the world on expeditions that ranged from successful ascents of Mount Everest to climbing new routes on El Capitan.

Brock Wagstaff

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