American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, USSR, Pamir Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Pamir Mountains. The 1984 American Pamir expedition was in the Soviet Union from July 12 to August 11. After a brief visit to Moscow, we flew, drove and trekked 2700 miles into the Pamir range. Rick Nolting and Barry Nash made a five-day ascent of the north ridge of the Peak of the 19th Congress (5913 meters, 19,400 feet), reaching the summit on July 25. This was the first ascent of this peak in this climbing season. The Russians considered the peak to be in bad condition and therefore dangerous. Ed Cummings and Nash reached the summit of Pik Lenin (7134 meters, 23,400 feet) on July 31 via the normal route. Clara Witt and Tom Russell provided support for the Pik Lenin effort while John Chulick and Don Obendorf trekked up and across major glaciers and visited a number of Kirghiz villages.

Donald D. McIntyre

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