American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, USSR, Pik Kommunizma and Pik der Vier, Pamir

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Pik Kommunizma and Pik der Vier, Pamir. As members of an Austrian group, my Tirolean friend Franz Schösser and I climbed alpine-style Pik der Vier (6380 meters, 20,932 feet) and Pik Kommunizma (7483 meters, 24,550 feet) via the Borodin Buttress. We were helicoptered to Base Camp at the junction of the Valter and Moskvin Glaciers. On the former we had bivouacs at 5200 and 6000 meters. On Pik Kommunizma we had lots of storms and reached Dushambe (the last camp at 7000 meters) three times before we finally reached the summit on July 27. Our second try was stopped by a rescue. Together with Russian trainers, we rescued a German from 7000 meters where he had sat for two nights without shelter. Although there were many parties from different nations, only a few had reached the summit of Kommunizma by the end of July. There were two accidents near the first campsite at 5400 meters. A Frenchman died during a fall of several hundred meters. A Japanese lady was injured after a fall of 200 meters.

Wolfgang Stefan, Österreichischer Alpenklub

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