American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Bojohagur Duanasir

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Bojohagur Duanasir. Tsuneo Omae led a Japanese expedition which made the first ascent of Bojohagur Duanasir by its southwest ridge. They approached via the Hasanabad Glacier west of the peak. They placed Base Camp at 4300 meters on June 19 and Camps I and II on June 24 and July 4 at 4600 and 5500 meters on a spur of the southwest ridge. Camps III and IV on the ridge at 6200 and 6900 meters were established on July 14 and 24. On July 28 three climbed over a 7250-meter foresummit to the summit (7329 meters, 24,045 feet), followed by five others on July 30. Photographs appear in Iwa To Yuki, N° 107. A British expedition led by Anthony Saunders was attempting the mountain at the same time from the Ultar Glacier in the south. They failed at about 7000 meters.

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