American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Payu Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Payu Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Joan Llasera, Franz Ludwig, Fredi Puig, Josep Raich, Jorci Selga, Joan Vinyoli and me. We placed Base Camp on July 23 at 3950 meters at the foot of Payu above the terminal moraine of the Baltoro Glacier. Camp I was placed on September 25 at the foot of the real climbing at 4980 meters. From Camp I we headed left to a long snow couloir and a sharp ridge which led to Camp II at 5300 meters, occupied on July 29. We fixed rope from Camp II along the side of the ridge to the bottom of a characteristic needle, below which we pitched Camp III at 5550 meters on August 4. Above lay a magnificent 300-meter-high granite wall, which it took four days to climb and which used up most of our remaining equipment and rope. We fixed 2000 meters in all. We placed Camp IV on August 8 at 5875 meters in the col at the top of the needle. On the 9th we climbed to the junction with the first-ascent route, still 600 meters from the summit. The weather then turned against us and we had to descend.

Antoni Bahí, Centre Excusionista de la Comarca de Bages, Spain

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