American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Broad Peak

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Broad Peak. Broad Peak has become one of the most popular of the 8000ers. In a period of good weather and good conditions, two expeditions were successful. On June 26 Swiss Andreas Reinhard and Thomas Hägler and Colombian Manuel Barrios got to the top. After placing camps at 5775, 6300 and 7050 meters, Italians Gianni Calcagno, Alberto Enzio and Tullio Vidoni reached the summit on June 27. This period was followed by two weeks of bad weather. Then members of several different expeditions teamed together. On July 13 Harald Navé and Hans Zebrowski, who had just climbed Chogolisa, Austrian Karl Hub, German Rüdiger Schleypen and the Italians Calcagno and Vidoni— members of four expeditions—left for the summit together. The first two stopped to bivouac in the col and Zebrowski climbed on the next day, as noted elsewhere in this journal. The other four continued on during July 13 and reached the summit around 7:15 P.M. A bivouac on the descent had bad effects at least for Schleypen, who froze his feet. Austrian Kurt Diemberger, who had made the first ascent in 1957, returned at the age of 52 and with Englishwoman Julie Tullis reached the summit on July 18. Reinhard, Hägler, Barrios, Diemberger, Tullis and Schleypen were all members of a big group led by Stefan Wörner. A German expedition led by Hubert Schmidbauer was unsuccessful.

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