American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum II Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Gasherbrum II, Ski Descent. Our expedition was composed of French skiers and climbers Christian Muller, Christiane Drieux, François Labande, Dr. Dominique Dock, Patrice Bournat and me as leader and Swiss Wim Pasquier. We reached Base Camp at 5250 meters on the Abruzzi Glacier on July 12 after a ten-day approach. We climbed the normal route on Gasherbrum II. From July 13 to 22 we worked to establish our only fixed camp, Camp I, at 6000 meters and to acclimatize. The first summit attempt lasted from July 24 to 31. This had to be halted when Muller came down with pulmonary edema at 7500 meters. We left two pairs of skis there and evacuated the sick man. On the second attempt Bournat, Dock and Pasquier left Base Camp for Camp I on August 3. They bivouacked at 6700 and 7500 meters on August 4 and 5. On the 6th Bournat and Pasquier reached the summit at ten A.M. while Dock went to 7700 meters. The pair skied back to 7500 meters. On August 7 they skied down to Camp I and reached Base Camp the next day. The whole descent was done on skis, including a 10-meter rappel down a sérac. There was a second French expedition on the mountain at the same time, also with ideas of skiing. The leader Jacques Demarolle, Dr. Frédéric Maurel, P. Glaizes and P. Guedu reached the summit on July 31. However, they had to quit skiing at 7500 meters to assist Michael Touitou down to Base Camp. They left a monoski and a pair of skis at that altitude.

Daniel Croisot, Club Alpin Français

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