Kondus. Our expedition was not very ambitious since we chose the easiest route on Kondus: the northern slope. Kondus lies between Chogolisa and Baltoro Kangri. Our team had ten members with me as leader. We left Skardu on July 3 with 30 porters. We left our liaison officer and his cook behind at Urdokas and continued with ten porters carrying light equipment to the junction of the Abruzzi and Chogolisa Glaciers, where we placed Base Camp at 16,400 feet on July 13. On July 14, with two companions, I reconnoitered by its left bank the very broken Chogolisa Glacier toward the Kaberi Col to 20,000 feet and returned that same day to Base Camp. As the glacier was so dangerous, I allowed only two climbers to attempt the summit. Roger Forin and Louis Stocco went to bivouac at 17,400 feet. They reached the summit (6758 meters, 22,173 feet) on July 16 and descended that same day to Base Camp. We left Base Camp on July 17 and were back in Skardu on the 24th. From July 3 to 8 the weather was rather good; from July 9 to 19 it was superb and after that, rather good.

Claude Jager, Club Alpin Français