American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, K7, First Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

K7, First Ascent. After many previous unsuccessful expeditions, a Japanese expedition led by Toichiro Nagata finally managed to climb the peak by its southwest ridge with a two-month siege, 6500 meters of rope and 450 bolt or piton placements. Base Camp was placed on the Charakusa Glacier on June 19. Camps I, II and III were established by mid-July at 5190, 5680 and 6020 meters. On July 31 they set up Camp IV at 6220 meters and on August 3 Camp V at 6550 meters on the shoulder. On August 8 Akira Kamizawa, Eizo Mitani and Kakoto Takenata reached the summit (6934 meters, 22,750 feet), followed the next day by the leader Nagata, Dr. Michiyuki Matsuda and Atsuro Chiba. An article with maps and photographs appears in Iwa To Yuki, N° 107. Australians led by Rob MacKenzie in May and June had failed to climb the peak.

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