American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Chogolisa from the Northwest and Broad Peak

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Chogolisa from the Northwest and Broad Peak. Our group, Louis Deuber, Swiss, Richard Franzl and Harald Navé, Austrians, and my wife Alice Zebrowski and I, Germans, left Rawalpindi on May 16 and proceeded to Concordia on the Baltoro Glacier. For our first objective, Chogolisa, we set up Base Camp on the true left bank of the Vigne Glacier at 4900 meters on May 31. On June 8, after acclimatization ski trips, we ascended the Vigne to its head on the west of Chogolisa, where we set up Camp I at 5500 meters. On the east side of the cirque, an 800-meter (2600-foot) ice slope rises to a giant glacial plateau, which lies under the northern side of the summit trapezoid. Brosig and the Germans, who first climbed this route in 1983 (A.A.J., 1984, page 289), climbed a rock spur. We could climb a snow gully left of the spur because of better conditions; in fact we skied all but the upper 100 meters. Camp II was on the plateau at 6300 meters. From this camp the whole team reached the summit (7654 meters, 25,112 feet) on June 10, my wife making the first female ascent. The 1300-meter (4250-foot) northwest summit slope was not difficult. We could ski from the summit ridge to Base Camp except for a few meters. We then moved to the west side of Broad Peak. From June 23 to July 16 Deuber, Franzl and I climbed Broad Peak by the normal route. Deuber and Franzl got to the summit on June 26 and I on July 13. During a bivouac on the summit ridge, I froze toes, necessitating a helicopter evacuation from Base Camp to Skardu. Contrary to previous experiences, the Pakistani military is now prepared to land at the 4900-meter Broad Peak Base Camp and did land and take off without problems. However, when the request for the helicopter is made, the exact spot and height must be given and assurance that the landing site is suitable. There remains the problem of delay. In our case it was eight days from the time the people left to summon help. These took four days to Skardu. The other four days were needed to get the bureaucracy into motion.

Hans Zebrowski, Germany

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