American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India–Himachal Pradesh, CB54

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

CB54. Our expedition, comprising my wife Lizzie, my brother Peter, Adam Brown, Jim Shilling and me, set out on August 22. Brown and I were the climbers, the other working in support. Our aim was to make the first ascent of CB54 and then travel 30 kilometers north to climb KR5, exploring the region between. Our first attempt on CB54 failed at 18,000 feet in bad weather. The attempt on KR5 failed at 19,500 feet due to loose rock and continual storms. After we returned to Base Camp on September 10, Brown fell ill and was unable to climb. On September 12 a local porter Lal Chand and I set out for CB54. We spent the first night above the first of two icefalls. The second day we climbed the badly crevassed upper cwm and spent the night below a wide ice gully on the west face that led to the summit. The gully was steep and exposed to rockfall. We left at eight A.M. on September 14 and reached the summit (6096 meters, 20,000 feet) at 5:30 P.M. I led all twelve pitches on ice and seven on rock.

Robin Hamer, England

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