American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India–Garhwal, P 6309, North of Chaturangi Glacier

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

P 6309, North of Chaturangi Glacier. We reached Base Camp at Nandanban at 14,500 feet on September 13, set up Advance Base at Vasuki Tal at 16,000 feet on the 18th and Camp I at 16,500 feet at the base of P 6309 on the 23rd. From Camp I we climbed the southwest ridge alpine-style with two biv ouacs. The first bivouac at 18,000 feet was made in a snowstorm on September 25. On September 27, from a higher bivouac at 19,500 feet, Steve Bain, John Bannister, Jonell Geller and I completed the new route and made the second ascent of the peak (20,700 feet). The technical difficulties were concentrated in the upper part of the ridge close to the summit. As no porters were used above Base Camp, the mountain’s remoteness, 10 miles from Base, posed the major obstacle to the ascent.

Nigel Cleaver, Sierra Club

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