American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India–Garhwal, Shivling

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Shivling. On June 5 Patxo Dávila, José Luis Fernández Bedia, José Carlos Tamayo and I reached the summit of Shivling (6543 meters, 21,467 feet) by its south buttress. We left Uttarkashi on May 24 with ten porters, a cook and a liaison officer. Three days later we established Base Camp at Tapovan. After a few days of acclimatization, we got to the base of the wall at about 14,750 feet. On the 31st we climbed the bottom of the face to reach a gendarme that marks the beginning of the south ridge. On June 1, 2 and 3 we climbed the buttress and on the 4th we reached the icy plateau at 6300 meters. From there we headed for the summit, which we reached at 9:30 A.M. on June 5 after climbing some pitches of bad ice. We descended the northwest ridge in various rappels to the Meru Glacier and were back in Base Camp at noon.

Alberto Posado, Federación Vasca de Montaña, Spain

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