Uja Tirche. The objective of Ajit Shelat and me was Uja Tirche (6202 meters, 20,348 feet) in eastern Garhwal. It lies on the Siruanch Glacier. Ours was the third ascent, following the Scots Weir and Murray in 1950 and a team from Calcutta in 1974. We followed the route of the Indians up the west ridge. We established Base Camp at 14,000 feet on the Siruanch Glacier on October 9. We climbed a scree-filled gully to Camp I at 17,000 feet on the 14th. Camp II was placed at 18,000 feet two days later. We then climbed up to gain the west ridge and reached the summit on the 18th. The climb was mostly on scree and loose boulders. We found little snow.
C D. Tambat, India