American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Annapurna, Winter Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Annapurna, Winter Attempt. After our success on Yalung Kang, Laurence de la Ferrière and I wanted to climb Annapurna by the 1950 French route on the north face. Knowing the dangers, we hoped to climb alpine-style, taking advantage of our acclimatization from Yalung Kang. We were accompanied to Base Camp by a support team. This camp was placed at 4350 meters on November 27. Camps I and II were established at 5100 and 6000 meters on December 1 and 2, before we returned to Base Camp. We set out for the summit on December 8 but a serious accident to the Korean expedition which was climbing a route parallel to ours happened when two of their Sherpas fell 1000 meters. We gave help. We set out again on December 10 but had bad weather on the 11th. We left Base Camp on December 13 on a last try. The wind high up was too violent. The mountain was becoming dangerous. We gave up. It seems to us that the north face of Annapurna is extremely dangerous.

Bernard Muller, Groupe de Haute Montagne

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