Annapurna IV Attempt. Six Italians and three French climbers led by Renato Moro first attempted the north face and on October 6 Frenchman Pierre Bisson and Italian Giampaolo Zortea reached 6800 meters from Camp II and it became evident that they had not brought enough rope and other equipment for this steep route. Then they shifted to an attempt on the northwest ridge and all nine on October 9 got to the French expedition’s Camp I at 5300 meters. That night there was a heavy snowfall and with their time running out, they abandoned the climb. The expedition actually had expected to climb the northwest ridge, but Thivierge’s French expedition already had a permit for the route. In Kathmandu the two teams had agreed to share the northwest ridge, and the Ministry of Tourism had agreed to this, but the Italians’ liaison officer disregarded the understanding and they had to go to the north face. When the liaison officer left, they could go to the ridge, but by then it was too late.

Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley