Kwangde, North Face. Our expedition started with three members, José M. Cardero, Angel L. Muñoz and me, but Cardero was struck by a falling rock at the base of the wall, which broke his leg. He had to be carried by porters to Lukla. Our Base Camp was near Hungo village. Muñoz and I attempted to make a new direct route on the north face of Kwangde. After a first bivouac on the face, we came to a very dangerous rock band and traversed right to the west ridge, which we reached after two more bivouacs. The snow there was also very dangerous. After a fourth bivouac at the point where we got to the ridge, we reached the summit (6187 meters, 20,299 feet) on November 1. We had climbing of UIAA VI difficulty and ice from 65° to 90°. This is the second route on the face. Our route was well to the right of that of Lowe and Breashears of 1982.
Juan Antonio Lorenzo Federación Española de Montañismo