American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Nuptse Northwest Summit, Northwest Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Nuptse Northwest Summit, Northwest Ridge. A French expedition led by Raymond Renaud climbed Nuptse Northwest (7720 meters, 25,328 feet) by the northwest ridge from the south, a new approach to the ridge. They had four high camps. The French gave climbing instruction to the Sherpas every afternoon. A total of eight Frenchmen and six Sherpas got to the summit. On October 15 Jean-Marie Perrier, Sherpani Nima, her husband Lakpa Norbu and Sherpa Ang Kami got to the top. Nima, inexperienced before this climb, holds the altitude record for Nepalese women. On October 19 Yvan Estienne, René and Rémy Roux and Pierre Cinquin reached the summit. On October 20 and 21 Vionnet, Pailheret, Dr. Dantoine, Renaud and three other Sherpas got to the top. No attempt was made to continue to the main summit, which was very far away over an exposed ridge in high winds and for which they had insufficient climbing gear.

Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley

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