Makalu Attempt. An Italian expedition of 11 was led by Almo Giambisi. They first wanted to repeat the Czechoslovakian route up the southeast buttress and reached 6800 meters on September 19. Strong winds forced them down the mountain and they waited two weeks for better weather. Then, when they resumed their climb in early October, they went up the normal route to the Makalu
Col and thence up the north ridge. On October 10 Sergio Martini and Fausto De Stefani turned back at 7900 meters when again the wind was too strong. They decided to quit the climb on October 16 after there had been considerable snowfall. They made four bivouacs on the second route.
Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley