Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga, Solo

Publication Year: 1985.

Kangchenjunga, Solo. I reached the top of Kangchenjunga solo without supplementary oxygen on October 18 after 33 days on the mountain. I shared the route to Camp I at 20,400 feet on the “Hump” with Polish and French expeditions, both climbing Yalung Kang. I took a similar route to the French to Camp II at 23,300 feet on the Great Shelf. Separating from the French, I set up Camp III at 25,420 feet at the foot of the “Sickle.” My first attempt for the summit on October 12 ended in bad weather at 26,900 feet with frostbitten toes and fingers. Conditions improved and I climbed for fifteen hours on October 18 to reach the top at 7:30 P.M. I fell 30 feet while descending in the dark, injuring a leg, but reached Camp III at ten P.M. and descended to Camp I the next day. The injured leg and a failed gas stove, which kept me from having food or water after two A.M. on the 18th, made the descent difficult. From Base Camp I walked ten days with the aid of ski sticks to the nearest road. In Vancouver a piece of cartilage was removed from my knee joint. I was accompanied to Base Camp by Cindy Cannell, who climbed to Camp I and assisted me afterwards to reach the road.

Roger Marshall, Colorado