American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South American, Chilean–Argentine Patagonia, Cerro Mayo

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Cerro Mayo. Our expedition from Bergamo was composed of Mario Curnis, Sergio Dalla Longa, Carlo Ferrari, Antonio Magnanoni, Dr. Annibale Bonicelli, Nicola Nava and me as leader. We arrived at Base Camp at only 200 meters at the head of Mayo Fjord of Lago Argentino on November 27. We ascended the badly crevassed Mayo Glacier and pitched two tents at the foot of an impressive unnamed tower on December 6 as bad weather continued. On December 12, taking advantage of a break in the weather, Curnis, Dalla Longa, Ferrari and Magnanoni climbed steep ice to the foot of the final wall. At 1730 meters, still 300 meters or so from the summit, they were barely missed by a huge avalanche and retreated. Feeling the tower was too dangerous, on December 14 the same four climbed to bivouac at 1650 meters on Cerro Mayo’s south face. On the 15th they got to a col at 1750 meters on the west ridge, which they followed to the summit (2450 meters, 8038 feet). Cerro Mayo had been climbed in 1931 by Padre De Agostini by the easy opposite side. Ours was the second ascent and by a difficult new route.

Piero Nava, Club Alpino Italiano

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.