American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South American, Chilean–Argentine Patagonia, Gorra Blanca Ascent and Attempts on Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Other Peaks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Gorra Blanca Ascent and Attempts on Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Other Peaks. My husband Gino Buscaini and I climbed the whole of the Supercouloir of Fitz Roy on December 6 but because of bad weather we had to rappel off the next day. The weather that followed was lovely but too hot. It foiled an attempt on Cerro Torre from the Continental Icecap on the west. There was bare ice and falling ice. On the way back to Base Camp at Piedra del Fraile, we made on December 18 what was probably the third ascent of Gorra Blanca. Two other attempts on Fitz Roy, this time by the Chouinard route were driven back by rockfall and falling ice. We then turned to the San Lorenzo group, where we made the first ascent of Cerro Penitentes (2930 meters, 9613 feet) on January 22, 1985 by way of the north glacier. We then made three easy first ascents: Cerro de los Pedreros (2250 meters, 7382 feet), Cerro de las Aguas Sueltas (2280 meters, 7480 feet) and Pirámide Bella Vista (2100 meters, 6890 feet). We found a cairn on the summit of Cerro de los Cónderes (2250 meters, 7382 feet), which lies north-northeast of Cerro Hermoso.

Silvia Metzeltin Buscaini, Club Alpino Italiano

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