Fitz Roy. Scott Backes and I climbed Fitz Roy by the American Route. We arrived in Base Camp on January 2. After 42 days and four unsuccessful attempts we climbed the route in 2½ days from Base Camp. We reached the summit at three P.M. on February 12. Four French climbers reached the summit six hours later and bivouacked on the descent. The descent took six hours and 18 rappels and we reached our ice cave below the col at dark. It took another five hours to descend to Base Camp in deteriorating weather. This was the first period of clear weather longer than 24 hours since December.