Aconcagua, South Face. The Polish woman, Wanda Rutkiewicz, along with the Swiss Stéphane Schaffter succeeded in making the ascent of the south face of Aconcagua by the 1954 French route from January 16 to 19, 1985. They were trapped for a day 1000 meters below the top by the weather. The climb was difficult both from a technical and a psychological standpoint. They had rock of UIAA V difficulty and much steep ice with vertical or overhanging sections. There was rockfall and avalanche danger. On the first day Wanda was caught in a powder-snow avalanche but not dragged off her holds. The bivouac sites were very bad. They reached the summit at five P.M. and descended the normal route, reaching Base Camp, 10,000 feet lower that same day! Rutkiewicz is the third woman to have made the climb and the first European. She was preceded by Titoune Bouchard and Sharon Wood.
Jozef Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland