South America, Chile–Central Andes, Tupungato and Tupungatito, First Winter Ascents

Publication Year: 1985.

Tupungato and Tupungatito, First Winter Ascents. The Spanish mountain guide and ski instructor at Farellones, Chile, Fernando Garrido, had attempted Tupungato in the winter of 1981. He succeeded in the same endeavor on October 16, 1984. He approached the mountain (6550 meters, 21,490 feet) by way of the Río Colorado valley, northeast of Santiago and mostly on skis reached the Vega de los Flojos, classical Base Camp for Tupungato. From this place he made the first ski ascent of Tupungatito(5640 meters, 18,504 feet) on October 10. He then ascended to the Portezuelo (gap) del Tupungato (c. 15000 feet) and carrying no tent, to save weight, he climbed to about 17,400 feet, where he had to abandon his skis. He continued and placed a bivouac on the north side of the mountain, at about 18,000 feet. On October 16 he reached the top of Tupungatito, finding there a Chilean and an Argentinian flag left by previous parties.

Humberto Barrera, Club Andino de Chile