American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru–Cordillera Huayhuash, Puscanturpa Norte, North Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Puscanturpa Norte, North Face. Our expedition was composed of Graziano Bianchi, leader, Corrado Brustia, Felice Boselli, Osvaldo Antonietti, Silvio Mondinelli, Gino Mora, Ambrogio Veronelli, Sergio Zambra, Mario Valsecchi and me. Bianchi was returning after an attempt in 1974 and an ascent in 1975 of the northwest face of Puscanturpa Norte (A.A.J., 1975, page 165 and A.A.J., 1976, page 489, both with photos). We left Lima on August 1 and traveled to Surasacho by bus. We walked to Lake Viconga and crossed the Cuyoc Pass to get to Base Camp at 4600 meters on August 4. We reconnoitered the next day. On August 6 we placed Camp I at the foot of the wall at 4750 meters and climbed the first 200 meters of the face. On the 7th we placed Camp II on a shelf at 5035 meters and climbed another 80 meters. The bottom and middle sections were of quite good compact dolomite rock. The weather turned bad. On August 11, Antonietti and Mondinelli climbed to Camp II and some 150 meters beyond. On August 12 they reached the summit (5621 meters, 18,441 feet) at 4:30 P.M. The last 50 meters of rock were loose blocks. On August 13 Bianchi and Mora also reached the summit.

Aristide Galbusera, Club Alpino Italiano

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