Chacraraju, South Face Attempt. On August 21 Alberto García and Francisco José Escolar of Spain and I as guide climbed the south face of Chacraraju. We climbed between the 1978 Richey-Brewer and the Jager routes to the top of the face. We broke trail from camp at 5200 meters to the foot of the wall on August 21. We set out at 3:45 on the 21st and crossed the bergschrund at five A.M. The first 200 meters were of 50° hard snow. The next 200 meters were of 60° to 70° hard snow and ice, the last 80 meters being verglas-coated rock. The next 100 meters were 70° to 90° ice and the last 100 meters to the crest were of extremely difficult mixed climbing and 75° to 90° ice. After reaching the ridge crest, we did not continue along the ridge to the summit because of bad weather.

Walter Silverio, Asociación de Guías de Montañas del Perú