American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru–Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy, North Face, and Chacraraju, South Face, Solo

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Huandoy, North Face, and Chacraraju, South Face, Solo. After acclimatization and an attempt on Ocshapalca frustrated by bad weather from August 4 to 9, on August 121 left the Laguna Parón at 4000 meters at two P.M. At 5:20 I was at the lake below Huandoy and at the foot of the face of Huandoy at 5450 meters at 10:30. Climbing through the night, I made the first solo ascent of the French route on the north face of Huandoy to reach the summit (6355 meters, 20,850 feet) at five A.M. on August 13. I was back at Laguna Parón at 1:30 P.M. On August 17 I left the Llanganuco Lakes at 3895 meters at six P.M. and was at the foot of the south face of Chacraraju at 5400 meters at eleven P.M. I climbed the Richey-Brewer route, reaching Chacraraju’s summit ridge at 5990 meters at 5:30 A.M., also a first solo ascent. I did not continue to the summit because the knife-edged ridge was badly corniced. A second attempt on Ocshapalca was also stopped by bad weather.

Joan Quintana, Centre Excursionista de Catalunya

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.