Huandoy, North Face, and Chacraraju, South Face, Solo. After acclimatization and an attempt on Ocshapalca frustrated by bad weather from August 4 to 9, on August 121 left the Laguna Parón at 4000 meters at two P.M. At 5:20 I was at the lake below Huandoy and at the foot of the face of Huandoy at 5450 meters at 10:30. Climbing through the night, I made the first solo ascent of the French route on the north face of Huandoy to reach the summit (6355 meters, 20,850 feet) at five A.M. on August 13. I was back at Laguna Parón at 1:30 P.M. On August 17 I left the Llanganuco Lakes at 3895 meters at six P.M. and was at the foot of the south face of Chacraraju at 5400 meters at eleven P.M. I climbed the Richey-Brewer route, reaching Chacraraju’s summit ridge at 5990 meters at 5:30 A.M., also a first solo ascent. I did not continue to the summit because the knife-edged ridge was badly corniced. A second attempt on Ocshapalca was also stopped by bad weather.
Joan Quintana, Centre Excursionista de Catalunya