AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

South America, Peru–Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy Este, East Face and Ocshapalca, South Face, Solo

Huandoy Este, East Face and Ocshapalca, South Face, Solo. In July, I made two solo ascents. The first, the south face of Huandoy Este, probably was not a first due to its proximity to the Pisco Base Camp, although I saw no signs of previous ascents. I followed the main obvious gully line in the center of the face which reaches the east ridge 150 feet below the summit. It involved 60° to 70° ice climbing with occasional short mixed sections in the bottom part. The upper parts were steep, rimey flutes, requiring exciting steep chimneying and bridging. The descent was something of a problem. I descended a short way down the north ridge and made several short rappels and seemingly endless down-climbing on the east face. The face is a huge, loose, mostly rock wall and not a good place in warm weather. The second route I soloed was definitely not new, but it was the first solo. I climbed the obvious gully system on the south side of Ocshapalca which ends just west of the summit.

Alex Lowe