North America, Greenland, Kristian Gletscher Area, Schweizerland, East Greenland

Publication Year: 1985.

Kristian Gletscher Area, Schweizerland, East Greenland. In June, an international expedition left for East Greenland. It was composed of ten Italians: Antonio Colli, Mauro Corona, Maurizio Dall’Omo, Luciano De Crignis, Fabio Delisi, Lino Di Lenardo, Roberto Mazzilis, Dr. Cristina Smiderle, Luciano Zardini and me as leader; two Slovenes: Peter Podgonik and Janko Humar; and two Tunamuit Eskimos: Ane Kuitse and Ferdinan Maqe. We were north of Angmagssalik in the northern part of the mountainous region which has Greenland’s highest mountains, Schweizerland. After reaching the village of Tasiilâq, we were transported by helicopter to Base Camp at 1600 meters on the Kristian Glacier after bad weather had foiled a first attempt and stranded five climbers halfway on a moraine of the crevassed Midgaard Glacier. The expedition divided in Base Camp into four groups, which set out, often in driving snow and cold temperatures, for various objectives. Despite heavy snowfalls which rendered ascents dangerous because of avalanches and falling cornices, the climbers were favored by the long days of the Arctic summer and were extremely active. The results of the climbing activity were very positive. We climbed 28 new routes, 20 of which were on previously unclimbed peaks. Some were of great difficulty. The following ascents were made. [The Editor has retained the names given by the expedition, although it is nearly certain that the Greenland authorities will not accept most of them. They are enclosed in quotation marks. Altitudes for these were obtained by aneroid barometer. The peaks are listed roughly from north to south.] “Tasiilâq” (3050 meters, 10,007 feet; 2 miles northeast of Henri Dunant Bjerg) by Kuitse, Maqe, Delisi, Pais Becher on the night from June 22 to 23, via east face, south ridge and south face; “Belluno” (2900 meters, 9515 feet), “Punta Cristina” (2850 meters, 9351 feet) and “Punta Erto” (2700 meters, 8858 feet; these last three peaks lie from north to south on the ridge south of “Tasiilâq”) by Zardini, Smiderle, Corona, Colli on the night from June 22 to 23; Henri Dunant Bjerg* (3240 meters, 10,630 feet) by Zardini, Colli, June 26 via east face, a new route; “Tolmezzo” (2900 meters, 9515 feet; 4½ miles east of Henri Dunant Bjerg; called Churchill by the 1968 British expedition) by Mazzilis, Di Lenardo, June 25 from the south; “Valcellina” (2730, 8957 feet; 3½ miles east of Henri Dunant Bjerg) by Colli, Corona, June 23 from the northeast; “Angmagssalik” (3200 meters, 10,499 feet; just south of “Valcellina”) by Corona, Zardini, Colli, June 25 via north face; “Cima 9 Otto- bre, 1963” (2650 meters, 8694 feet; 1 mile east of “Angmagssalik”) by Corona, June 26 via north face and north ridge; Pharaoh* (3000 meters, 9843 feet; 7 miles southeast of Henri Dunant Bjerg) by De Crignis, June 21 via east face, a new route; (north of a point marked as 1610 meters on the Geodaetisk Institut’s 1:250,000 map 66 0 2 Schweizerland lies a group with three ridges running south. “Valresia” is P 2600; “Zancan” is the northernmost in the central ridge with “Pilastro Rosso di Ligroom” and “Punta Aleš” farther south on the ridge. “International Expedition to East Greenland 1984” lies east of “Zancan” and “Torre Meskal” lies at the southern end of the eastern ridge.) “Valresia” (2070 meters, 6792 feet) by Humar, Mazzilis, June 29 via south face; “Pilastro Rosso di Ligroom” (1950 meters, 6398 feet) by Dall’Omo, Smiderle, Delisi, June 28 via east face; “Punta Aleš” (1950 meters, 6398 feet) by Podgornik, Humar, June 27 by northeast face; “International Expedition to East Greenland 1984” (2050 meters, 6726 feet) by Dall’Omo, Corona, Zardini on June 29 via south face; “Torre Meskal” (1900 meters, 6234 feet) by Delisi, Podgornik, June 29 via west face, the most difficult route done by the expedition; “Pavel” (2700 meters, 8858 feet; 10 miles southeast of Henri Dunant Bjerg and 1 mile south of P 2730) by Podgornik, Humar on the night from June 20 to 21 via southwest face, descent via northwest face; “Tamara” (2700 meters, 8858 feet; 1½ miles east of “Pavel” and 1 mile southwest of P 2850) by Podgornik, Humar, June 22 via south face, descent via west ridge and south face; “Jug” (2850 meters, 9351 feet; 7 miles south-southeast of Henri Dunant Bjerg) by Podgornik, Humar, June 23 and 24 via southeast face; (The other peaks climbed lie between the Kristian and the Champs Elysées Glaciers. They are from west to east “Kuitse-Maqe Lu Qaqqardivaa,” “Malia Qaqqardivaa,” It*, “Autarchia,” Toadstool* and “Tinetilâq,” 5, 6, 8, 9, 10 and 15 miles respectively east of Quervain Bjerg.) “Kuitse-Maqe Lu Qaqqardivaa” (2050 meters, 6726 feet) and “Malia Qaqqardivaa” (2000 meters, 6562 feet) both by Kuitse and Maqe on June 29; It (2200 meters, 7218 feet) and “Autarchia” (2100 meters, 6890 feet) by Delisi, Dall’Omo, June 25, both by north faces, a new route on It; It by De Crignis, Podgornik, July 28 and 29 via north face; Toadstool (2400 meters, 7874 feet) by De Crignis, Smiderle on the night from June 24 to 25 via north face, a new route; and “Tinetilâq” (2300 meters, 7546 feet) by Kuitse, Maqe, Pais Becher on the night from June 25 to 26 from the north.

Gianni Pais Becher, Club Alpino Italiano

* These are the only peaks which had been previously climbed. The only officially accepted names are Henri Dunant Bjerg and Quervain Bjerg. Pharaoh, It and Toadstool were given by the 1984 British expedition.