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North America, Greenland, Staunings Alper

Staunings Alper. An expedition from Rome climbed in the Staunings Alper at 72° north latitude. Despite bad weather, they made ten first ascents and at least one new route. However, they gave the peaks names here placed in quotes which it is highly unlikely will be officially accepted. The members were Franco Alletto, Paolo Caruso, Paolo D’Ugo, Mauro Dainese, Dr. Marcello Patemò, S. Pucci, Giampaolo Picone and Marco Re. Re, Picone and Caruso made a new route on St. John’s Peak (2100 meters, 6808 feet) on July 26. The following, most of which we could locate on the map, were first ascents: P 2460, (8071 feet; “Tibertinde;” between Tantallon and Beaufort) via south couloir to a col north of Beaufort and thence six rock pitches to the top by Re, Picone, Pucci, Caruso on July 23; P 2400 (7874 feet; “Cicero;” above Cavendish Glacier) via south ridge and the final rock tooth by Caruso, Re, Picone on July 26; P 2600 (8530 feet; “Palatinum;” location?) via northwest slope by Picone, Caruso, Re, date?; P 2000 (6562 feet; “Cima San Paolo;” northernmost summit on the ridge that joins St. John’s Peak with Korsspids) via north slope, couloir and face by Re, Picone, Caruso on July 29; P 2450 (8038 feet; “Cima Virgilio;” next peak south of “San Paolo”) via northwest face of Dansketinde, southwest couloir and west ridge by Re, Caruso on August 6; P 2500 (8202 feet; “Cima Cesar;” on the west-northwest ridge of St. John’s Peak) via southwest and west ridge by Re, Caruso on August 8; “Foresummit Moena” (north-east of St. John’s Peak) via west couloir and final rocks by Patemò, Dainese, Caruso on August 2; P 2100 (6890 feet; “Cima Marco Aurelio;” behind St. John’s Peak and Norsketinde) via north couloir and ridge by Re, Picone, Pucci on August 2; and P 2050 (6727 feet; “Cima Blonde;” location?) via south slope by Alletto, Marini, D’Ugo on July 29. They also explored for the first time the “Colosseum Glacier.” Caruso soloed a ridge behind Abraxas and St. John’s Peak by the north couloir.