American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

Eldorado Canyon. Left of C’est la Vie, Christian Griffith and Pat Ament climbed Pointe Sauvage (80 feet, 5.11a R), a vertical face protected by bolts drilled from stances. The climb joins C’est la Vie at the base of the corner. Starting off the lower ramp, Bob Horan led The Gem (40 feet, 5.1lb), a smooth slab split by an RP crack. On the south end of the West Ridge, Horan and Dan Hare climbed Mineral Maze (70 feet, 5.l1d), featuring a difficult overhanging comer. The climb was top-roped and pre-protected with one bolt on abseil, prior to ascent. Left of the first pitch of Side Wall, Nathan Charlton and Steve Morris climbed Unbroken Chain (60 feet, 5.11c). The most sought after prize of the past two years, was Rainbow Wall (80 feet 5.13a), which was finally free climbed by Horan. This smooth wall on the south face of the Wind Tower had previously been bolted by an aid ascent. Many climbers including Skip Geurin, Harrison Dekker and Christian Griffith (who was close to succeeding) attempted the testpiece prior to Horan’s ascent. During one attempt, Horan pulled off a large underclung flake. This made the climb harder. He still succeeded without the flake, climbing the wall with two 5.12+ cruxes and no rests.

Mark Rolofson, Unaffiliated

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